We make forms for paving stones from various materials

Asphalt pavements with their puddles in the rain and unpleasant fumes in the heat of the past. They were replaced by neat, clean, nice walkways, covered with various kinds and colors of paving slabs. Slender rows of cobblestones make an impression of the incredible complexity of the whole process of creating such creative sidewalks. However, it turns out that the home craftsman is quite able not only to lay the stones of the paving stones alone and beautifully, but also to make them himself.

Types of paving stones

Paving, among other things, is different due to differences in the materials from which it is made. According to this feature, it is mainly divided into three types:

  • concrete;
  • clinker tiles;
  • tile made of natural stone.

Concrete

This type of paving stone has its own characteristics:

  1. Stones of such paving stones are not made of pure concrete, but with additives that improve its quality both in terms of performance, and in terms of appearance.
  2. According to the manufacturing process, concrete pavement is divided into molded with compaction by means of vibration and extruded under high pressure.
Vibro-concrete pavement made of concrete demonstrates poor performance, being not very strong, subject to abrasion and the destructive effect of frost. Pressed concrete pavers have slightly better characteristics. In general, concrete pavement is characterized by availability and low cost. In addition, it is different decorative features, which with the help of added dyes are expressed in all sorts of color variations.
Did you know? The forerunners of modern paving stones were burnt bricks on the fires, along which the roads in Ancient Mesopotamia were paved five thousand years ago.

Clinker

The clinker stone obtained by firing pressed clay possesses quite high performance properties due to the lack of pores in it, which gives it moisture resistance and resistance to temperature differences. In addition, this stone is easy to install, because it has the same surface on both sides, and can be two times thinner than concrete paving. Decorative properties are also high in clinker, but its value is also higher than that of concrete stones.

A natural stone

The stone blocks from a natural stone are strong and durable. Especially well suited for this purpose granite. In the process of use, it practically does not give in to erasure, moisture and temperature drops, does not crack and withstands enormous loads. But it costs much more than other types of paving slabs.

Forms

To make stones paving stones, you must first make special forms, also called matrices. They poured a solution of a certain composition, which after hardening repeats all their geometry and texture.

From the form for the manufacture of pavers required:

  • high resistance to mechanical stress;
  • high abrasion resistance;
  • chemical resistance.

The home craftsman himself is able to make the matrix:

  • plastic;
  • silicone;
  • wooden;
  • polyurethane.

Learn how to cast paving tiles for the suburban area yourself, make a path from wood cuts, concrete and lay paving tiles.

The matrix of plastic is the most reliable and durable form that can withstand up to a thousand fills without cracking and without losing the original form over time. In addition, the plastic matrix extremely accurately conveys to the stone the required geometric shapes and the necessary texture. Silicone matrices are characterized by high elasticity, making it easy to get finished products out of them.

In addition, silicone forms are different:

  • high tensile strength;
  • relatively low cost;
  • ideal qualities in the manufacture of molds for gypsum.

Their disadvantages include:

  • low resistance to chemical attack;
  • the possibility of air bubbles in their manufacture that adversely affect the quality of the forms.
Wooden forms for the manufacture of artificial stones are made of uneven bars. The texture is provided by a special plastic substrate.

The advantages of this type of matrix include:

  • low cost;
  • ease of manufacture.

And their disadvantages are:

  • poor tightness;
  • very short service life;
  • unsuitability for the manufacture of shaped plates.
Polyurethane forms belong to the popular types of dies for the manufacture of artificial stone. Their undoubted advantages are:

  • elasticity;
  • strength;
  • durability;
  • dimensional stability;
  • stability;
  • chemical resistance;
  • low inertness;
  • increased abrasion resistance.
In addition, polyurethane has a high fluidity, which allows the fabrication of the matrix is ​​extremely accurate to repeat the texture of the original sample.
Did you know? For the first time, viable artificial pavement tiles capable of competing with natural stone were introduced into the Netherlands at the beginning of the 19th century. The first artificial pavement was made of sand, baked clay and water.

How to make yourself

Before making a matrix for casting artificial stone, you must have a master model that represents a sample of the future product. For its production in full size used gypsum, clay, concrete, plastic or clay. Natural stones of the required size are suitable for it, and a tree with a suitable texture, and other material having a characteristic texture.

And to make a form with which polymeric matrices are poured, it is necessary to perform the following steps:

  1. Fastening the master model on plywood or similar sheet material.
  2. Preventing the spread of polymeric material (for which the template model is surrounded by a frame at a distance of two centimeters from the frame wall to the model surface). The height of the frame should exceed the master model by a couple of centimeters.
  3. Sealing the joints of the frame walls with a flat surface with a sealant to prevent leakage of liquid polymer under the walls.
  4. Filling the liquid between the polymer material space between the model and the walls of the frame to their full height.

To create a form using a master model, use:

  • bars of wood;
  • polyurethane, plastic, silicone;
  • electric drill;
  • saw;
  • building level;
  • screwdriver;
  • self-tapping screws.

The process of making molds from plastic

In the presence of a master model, the main work here is to create a frame around it. To do this:

  1. Prepare wooden bars in such a way that, surrounding the model, the frame of them would leave at least two centimeters between the model and its walls. And the height of the bars should be at least two centimeters higher than the model.
  2. Connect the bars between the screws and nails.
  3. Set the master model exactly in the frame center, making sure that the gap between it and the frame walls is the same around the perimeter.
  4. Fill this gap with liquid plastic to the height of the frame walls.
  5. After about an hour, the finished matrix should be removed. For this framework, you can simply disassemble.
  6. If you get any roughness, they can be easily removed with sandpaper.

Silicone mold making

Ingredients of special casting silicone:

  • the foundation;
  • catalyst;
  • hardener.

To make a matrix from it, you need:

  1. Surround the master model with the frame of the previous example.
  2. Lubricate the model with any kind of oil.
  3. Put it in the center of the frame.
  4. Mix the silicone components exactly as indicated by the manufacturer.
  5. Pour the resulting solution in a thin stream into the space from the frame to the model. Air bubbles should not occur.
  6. After the silicone has hardened within 24 hours, remove the ready-made matrix.

Video: Silicone Form

Making wooden forms

From this material only square, rectangular, polygonal, diamond-shaped forms are obtained. This requires:

  • wooden bars with a length that provides a 2-cm gap between the frame and the model, and 2 centimeters greater height than the model;
  • screwdriver;
  • saw or jigsaw;
  • ruler;
  • gon;
  • masking tape;
  • emery;
  • varnish for wood;
  • self-tapping screws.

You may also be interested to know how to cover the roof with an ondulin with your own hands, how to properly glue wallpaper on the walls and how to warm the window for the winter.

And for the manufacture of the simplest square shape you need:

  1. Mark the surface on which the structure will be created.
  2. Prepare 4 bars with a given length.
  3. Collect a frame from them and pre-fasten it with masking tape.
  4. Strengthen the frame with screws.
  5. The inner side of the frame to process sandpaper.
  6. Varnish it to facilitate removal of the finished stone from the mold.
  7. The joints between the bars to process the sealant to prevent leakage.

Video: forms for garden tiles

Manufacturing of polyurethane forms

Polyurethane matrixes are durable, reliable and durable. For their manufacture should:

  1. Polyurethane mixture pour into the construction of the bars and master models, following the example of the previous options.
  2. The edges of the surface on which the structure stands should be raised a couple of centimeters to facilitate the release of air bubbles from polyurethane.
  3. Leave it freeze for a day.
  4. After removal from the frame, the resulting form should be left for another two days for final hardening.

Video: polyurethane forms

Important! Due to the fact that this material emits harmful substances, it can only be used with the use of personal protective equipment.

How to prepare a mixture for the manufacture of paving stones

To get high-quality paving stones, you should pour in a good form at least a good mixture. She needs to have:

  • strength;
  • insignificant water absorption capacity;
  • resistance to temperature extremes;
  • abrasion resistance;
  • resistance to mechanical stress;
  • minimally porous structure.

In the manufacture of paving slabs used two methods of manufacture:

  • using vibratory casting;
  • by vibropressing.
The vibratory casting, in the course of which you can use the simplest vibrating table made with your own hands, is the only method available for home craftsmen to get paving stones at home. For vibropressing requires special expensive equipment and certain qualifications for its maintenance. High-quality paving stones, made by our own, are usually made double-layered with reinforcing additives between the layers (but, of course, single-layer tile also has the necessary characteristics and is also easier to manufacture). First, the face layer is made, after which it is made basic. Therefore, the mixture for the manufacture of pavers are of two types. Between the two layers of tile is laid reinforcing material, which is a segment of metal rods, laid so that they form a grid. This operation can be replaced by adding reinforcing synthetic fibers to the solution.
Important! The time interval between these two processes should not be more than 25 minutes in order to prevent the delamination of the tile.
Blend for facial layer. To obtain a square meter of the colored surface of the pavement, which is strong and frost-resistant, requires:

  • cement PC500 - 3 buckets;
  • small crushed stone and river sand mixed in equal proportions - 6 buckets;
  • dispersant and pigment dye in the form of a solution - 0.8 l;
  • water - 8 l.
Cement must be poured into a mixture of sand and plasticizer and, after thorough mixing, add crushed stone and finally pour water in small volumes. The density of the resulting solution should resemble thick cream, but the solution should retain the ability to easily be distributed throughout the volume of the form.

Video: preparation of colored concrete for paving stones and tiles

The quality of paving stones is significantly improved when used during the filling of the matrix of vibrating tables. Vibration frees the mixture from air bubbles, minimizes the number of pores inside the product and thereby makes it stronger.

Blend for base coat. It is prepared in approximately the same way as in the case of the facial layer, but it does not apply a dye and dispersant. Dispersant can replace not so expensive plasticizers, for example, in the form of thick detergents. Some changes are undergoing and the ratio between the sand-gravel mixture and cement, which is now 1: 3.

Important! When making molds for paving stones, it is recommended to simultaneously produce angular matrices that allow you to make corners and thus not to cut into whole stones.
Both layers in the form - both facial and basic - must be at least two centimeters thick. Flooded forms should be held on the included vibrating table for 5-10 minutes, then level the surface, cover the forms with a film and leave to dry for 1-2 days at a temperature of +15 to +25 ° C.

Video: making high-quality concrete mix

Modern technologies and materials allow the house craftsman to make forms for the production of high quality paving stones, which are often not inferior to factory paving slabs, neither in operational parameters nor in decorative properties.

Video: homemade forms for paving slabs

Watch the video: Make A Concrete SlabPaver (April 2024).